part 4 – cosmic dys
a & divine excrement: or, an essay unveiling the
teleoplexic identity of miltonic chaos, capitalist nigredo and alchemical
pepsi cola™
Part of the series cosmic dys
a & divine excrement
Yesterday: ‘Peristaltic Metaphysics and the Invention of Pepsi’
DAY 4. Alchemy to Chemistry: or, the Occult History of Carbonated
Beverages and the Secret Origins of Pepsi Cola
Pepsi Cola was not the first fizzy drink. Neither was it the first fizzy drink to be packaged as a
digestive aid. In terms of deep historical lineage, fizzy drinks emerged directly out of the alchemical
and iatrochemical tradition and its obsession with the secrets of gastroenterology. Put differently,
Pepsi’s occult genetic history — the story of its emergence into the world — connects straight back
to the lab of van Helmont and the speculations of Paracelsus: Pepsi’s genesis is thus inextricably
tangled up with the ideas that percolate through Paradise Lost’s alchemical metaphysics.
In 1767, Joseph Priestley — dissenting theologian, radical chemist and political utopian — moved
into a new house in Leeds. It was next to a brewery. Chemists at the time were fervently
experimenting with gases, leading, eventually, to Lavoisier’s dismissal of the phlogiston theory of
combustion; the discovery of oxygen (in part also attributed to Priestley); and the postulation of
chemical elements, igniting, in other words, the birth of modern chemistry. Of particular research
interest at the time was a curious colourless and odourless gas that was referred to as ‘fixed air’ or
‘factitious air’. Chemists had long been interested in its strange properties: for example, if you held
a flame in it, it would be extinguished, and it was known to suffocate animals. Importantly, it also
notoriously collected in wineries and breweries. Taking advantage of his surroundings, the freshlysettled Priestley set to work, requesting his new neighbours’ permission to begin experiments on
their premises. Heavier than air, this gas (which we now call ‘carbon dioxide’ after Lavoisier’s later
identification of it) would build up above the fermentation vats (indeed, it had long proved a lethal
danger as it was prone to pool in silos and cellars, asphyxiating unwitting workers). Priestley,
accordingly, began attempts to extract this so-called ‘fixed air’ from above the brewery’s beer vats.
Following one experiment — in which he poured water from one container to another just above the
fermenting vats — the chemist noticed that the liquid had suddenly become effervescent or, as he
put it, “impregnated with air”.1 Priestley, in other words, had just made the world’s first artificial
fizzy drink. Soda could now be unleashed upon the world. Always a utopian, Priestley later said this
was his “happiest” invention.2 Little did he know…
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part 4 – cosmic dys
a & divine excrement: or, an essay unveiling the
teleoplexic identity of miltonic chaos, capitalist nigredo and alchemical
pepsi cola™
Without hesitation, Priestley immediately billed his discovery as a cure for digestive issues. (This
would become part of a tradition surrounding carbonated liquids extending from Priestley forwards
to Bradham and backwards to Paracelsus.) He became convinced that his new artificiallymanufactured carbonated water would help to prevent scurvy — the horrendous affliction that had
murdered around two million sailors between 1500 and 1800.3 Importantly, scurvy (just before
James Lind’s research demonstrated it to be caused by a deficit of vitamins, curable with citrus)
was considered a digestive illness. It was thought that the disease was occasioned by the dyspeptic
“putrefaction” of the sufferer’s visceral organs, arising from indigested foodstuffs rotting inside
their intestines. Under the impression that the fizzy water would help alleviate this (and sensing
government commendation), Priestley proposed soda drinks as a cure to scurvy in a 1772 paper
addressed to the British Admiralty, entitled Impregnating Water with Fixed Air; In order to
communicate to it the peculiar Spirit and Virtues of Pyrmont water, and other Mineral Waters of
Similar Nature.4 Therein, Priestley provided an appendix detailing the treatment — via
administration of ‘fixed air’ beverages — of a patient with a “putrescent state of the [internal]
fluids”. “Fevers of the putrid kind” are cured by “fixed air”, it was confidently reported.5 In
agreement with this conclusion, Nathaniel Hulme (1732-1807) — an influential naval surgeon —
became likewise convinced that the cause of scurvy was bad diet and insisted that imbibing “fixed
air” would “prevent the putrefaction of human tissue by disease”.6 Subsequently, a device for
producing carbonated drinks was installed on board James Cook’s HMS Resolution, and, sure
enough, none of his crew suffered from scorbutic blight. In hindsight, this had more to do with
Cook’s meticulous captainship and good practice; the carbonated drinks, nevertheless, were
considered a great success. It was not long until a German watchmaker called Johann Jacob
Schweppe (1740-1821) set up the first mass production factory for carbonated drinks in Drury Lane,
and, riding on the back of contemporary medicinal wisdom, he marketed his soft drink as a cure for
biliousness. From the very beginning, then, carbonated drinks were related intimately to peptic
issues: it was this tradition of entwining medicinal presumptions and entrepreneurial savvy —
entrenched in the 18th century by Priestley, Hulme, Schweppe, etc. — that Caleb Bradham,
inventor of Pepsi, was drawing on in the 1890s when he invented his exhilarating ‘cure’ for
dyspepsia.
Returning to the late 1700s, however, we see that the benefits of fizz were so highly regarded that
they even briefly became the subject of military intrigue. Following the nautical success of
Priestley’s “impregnated water”, “[t]he Royal Society […] thought it was the start of a medical and
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travel revolution”7, and this was instantly perceived as “vital to the strategic interest of the Royal
Navy since carbonated water [was thought to remain] fresh longer [and] was useful for treating
upset stomachs”.8 It was considered a naval breakthrough. Where it had previously been a concern
that France — a country filled with naturally carbonated mineral water springs — may have the
edge on the Navy in this department, the Brits had suddenly upended the asymmetry. Along with
Lind’s breakthroughs in vitamin deficiency, it was not long until carbonated lime juice was a regular
for the navy (hence, ‘Limeys’). As Greenberg writes, “Priestley thus helped Britannia to ‘rule the
waves'”. Fascinatingly, this strategic “soda-pop gap” triggered an episode of international
espionage wherein a Portugese monk9, acting in French interests as a spy within the UK, purloined
a copy of Priestley’s paper and sent it back to Lavoisier. (Like any good world-changing consumer
item, Pepsi — along with the internet, jet engines, and microwaves — started life as a military
invention.) From this view, Pepsi’s self-assembly feeds back into itself — in a veritable
bootstrapping process — as the naval prowess bequeathed by carbonation technology facilitated
the furthering of the sugar trade’s global network10, thus dragging world history further towards
convergence upon the point at which sugar-addiction and fizziness merge in the invention of cola.
Scurvy affliction / scorbutic legs.
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Nevertheless, for all his genius, Priestley could not have stumbled upon the production of
carbonated water if he had not been previously aware of ‘fixed air’. He could not have made his
aerated waters without a prior notion of gas. And gas is, itself, a direct invention of the alchemicalarcheus tradition. ‘Gas’ was first identified by none other than Jan Baptist van Helmont in his own
speculations upon digestion and the various nested archaei of the natural order. “He was the first
to realise that gaseous substances other than air exist”, writes Almqvist.11 And the first gas van
Helmont discovered — thus the first gas ever properly described by science — was, appropriately,
carbon dioxide. Indeed, Paracelsus had himself made some headway in this department
(suggesting that there was something in the air that sustained living organisms, and by
experimenting with hydrogen)12, yet it was van Helmont who first discovered CO2 as a “gas”
separate from air.13 Moreover, it was exactly van Helmont’s fascination with gastric process that
originally led him to this discovery in the first place. Spurred on by his theory of the archeus, in
which all cosmic processes are essentially digestive processes, van Helmont experimented heavily
with fermentation processes. This is what first led him to notice that what he called “gas sylvestre”
(carbon dioxide) was a separate substance from air. From carefully observing fermentation (which
he took to be the digestive work of the universal archeus), van Helmont founded the concept of
‘gas’, coining the word at the same time. Helmont noted, moreover, that “gas sylvestre” arose in
both wine cellars and breweries and in naturally-carbonated spring waters.14 As Pagel writes, “gas
[became] central to his naturalist philosophy and cosmosophy”.15 Finally, van Helmont first
demonstrated that CO2 was given off when acid was poured on carbonates: it is from here that
‘soda water’ gets its name, because cooking soda was a commonly used carbonate for this process.
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Aside from providing the awareness of gases that allowed Priestley and others to produce soda
water, the very idea that carbonated liquids are good for digestion can be traced directly back to
the iatrochemists. Naturally, both van Helmont and his mentor Paracelsus were incredibly
interested in carbonated mineral waters arising from spas and springs. Paracelsus, who was born
the year after Columbus first voyaged to the American continent (bringing with him the sugarcane
seedlings that would eventually blossom into the globally enveloping market turbulence of the
Sugar Trade)16, is known as the “father of balneology” for his pioneering medical interest in
carbonated spring waters (balneology, of course, being the study of medicinal spring bathing and
the therapeutic effects of their waters).17 Since antiquity, civilizations have been mesmerised by
fizzy water bubbling out of the earth. Soda water has long been known as ‘Seltzer water’ because
of the famous Selterswasser springs in Selters, Netherlands, which have been documented since
771 AD. Further back, since at least Hippocrates, fizzy spa water had been associated with
eupepsia and good health. Hannibal famously refreshed himself with fizzing water from Vergeze on
his way to sack Rome in 218 BC. Medieval alchemists prescribed effervesced spring waters to
promote good digestion. Soon, after the 14th century, an international trade for bottled spa water
arose. Accordingly, across Europe, natural springs and baths slowly became healing centres:
including, for example, the famous Pyrmont mineral springs in Germany or the town of Spa in
Belgium. Perrier Soda Water, indeed, is still bottled from a naturally occurring spring. Nevertheless,
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it was Paracelsus who is said to have initiated the concerted study of the properties of these fizzy
springs.
In the summer of 1535 he travelled the spa town of Bad Pfafers, from which he wrote his influential
Baderbuchlin (which we know John Dee read eagerly).18 Always obsessed with digestion, Paracelsus
was quick to focus discussion upon the supposedly eupeptic properties of the water. He praised
carbonated spring water as “driv[ing] away gout, and mak[ing] the stomach as strong in digestion
as that of a bird that digests tartar and iron”.19 Imagining the ‘occult’ powers of the earth’s chthonic
healing laboratories — fizzing forth at the surface in this natural medicine — Paracelsus became
enthused: he attempted to artificially recreate the fizziness, but met with no success. It was, as we
have seen, only with his apprentice, van Helmont, that this effervescence first became the subject
of reverse engineering, thus opening the pathway to the industrial and globalised production of soft
drinks. Speculating even that the acidity of the spa waters held some occult connection with gastric
acid, Paracelsus and van Helmont enthusiastically opined that carbonated waters were better than
almost any other medicines. Bolstering an enduring fascination with the fizziness that seeps from
the planet’s chthonic depths — stretching back to Hippocrates, and becoming more popular
throughout the Middle Ages — the iatrochemical tradition helped to fully entrench the connection
between fizz and eupepsia in the public consciousness.
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Tomorrow: ‘
: Menstrual Chaotics and God’s Ectopic Pregnancy’
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1. Joseph Priestley, Impregnating Water with Fixed Air; In order to
communicate to it the peculiar Spirit and Virtues of Pyrmont water, and
other Mineral Waters of Similar Nature (1772).
2. Just as they were misidentified — upon arrival — as agents of eupepsia
(rather than the dyspepsia-generators they really are), soft drinks were
routinely mistaken for utopian items. Before its eventual unveiling as an
agent of capital’s superstimuli invasion and means-ends reversal,
fizziness became symbolic of utopia. The eccentric François Marie Charles
Fourier was famous, of course, for imagining that an environmentally reengineered earth would soon begin exhibiting oceans of lemonade. One
imagines the fully-capitalised earth exhibiting the opposite: surging with
obsidian seas of necrotizing cola.
3. Simon Shorvon & Humphrey Hodgson, Physicians and the War (Hachette,
2016), 37.
4. Fizzy water took the name ‘Pyrmont water’ due to a famous naturally
carbonated spring in Pyrmont, Germany. Earlier in the century, scientists
had
demonstrated
that
Pyrmont’s
water
was
fizzy
due
to
the
‘impregnation’ of ‘fixed air’ within it.
5. Joseph Priestley, Impregnating Water with Fixed Air; In order to
communicate to it the peculiar Spirit and Virtues of Pyrmont water, and
other Mineral Waters of Similar Nature (London, 1772), 18.
6. Indeed, prior to Priestley’s invention of reliably creating soda water, the
production of beverages from carbonic acids had been common. So-called
“Elixir of Vitriol” was a common treatment, which was presumed to
engender “fixed air” effervescence in the stomach and banish the
disease. Carbonated waters were introduced as a scorbutic cure as early
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as 1764. The practice of administering these highly acidic drinks would
likely have done more to hinder than help, and unfortunately remained in
place until 1795.
7. Tristan Donovan, Fizz: How Soda Shook up the World (Chicago, 2013), 8.
8. Arthur Greenberg, From Alchemy to Chemistry, (Wiley, 2006), 290.
9. Named Joaoa Jacinto de Magelhaens.
10. Indeed, it was precisely around this time — during the later 18th century
— that sugar exploded into a household commodity, possessing the tastebuds of Europeans: the New World islands took full advantage of this and
the overseas trade boomed. In England and Wales, sugar consumption
increased 2000% in the 1700s.
11. Ebbe Almqvist, History of Industrial Gases (Plenum, 2003), 3.
12. Paracelsus saw that when iron is dissolved in sulfuric acid “air rises and
breaks out like wind”. Unbeknownst to Paraclesus this was hydrogen.
13. “In consequence of burning coal ‘spiritus sylverstris’ comes into being.
This spiritus, which was formerly unknown and cannot be kept in vessels,
and cannot be converted into a visible form, I call by the new name
‘gas’.” Helmont, Ortus Medicinae, (Amsterdam, 1656). Thus, the invention
of Pepsi stretches back from Bradham to Priestley and from there to van
Helmont: it was exactly van Helmont’s discovery of CO2 in the 17th
century that allowed for Priestley, in the 18th century, to kick-start the
formation of the global soda industry in the ensuing 19th and 20th
centuries. It was also as a direct consequence of van Helmont’s
experimentations with CO2 and carbonated waters that Robert Boyle later
was able to formulate his important ‘Boyle’s law’.
14. There is a direct line of experiments from here to Priestley’s work.
Following van Helmont, others in the early 18th century had developed
the connection between ‘fixed air’ and effervescent mineral waters: early
in the century, the artificial production of ‘fixed air’ was developed via
applying acid to chalk; and in 1741, William Brownrigg demonstrated the
famous Pyrmont waters were “aerated” because they contain precisely
this “fixed air” gas; Brownrigg had heated a bottle of spa water and,
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collecting the CO2, suffocated mice with it. Around 1757, Joseph Black
produced the first systematic investigation of CO2; in 1770, Torben
Bergman started trying to document the composition of spring waters in
detail. No-one, until Priestley, however, had managed to reliably create
drinkable fizziness (although a Frenchman named Gabriel Venel had
attempted to duplicate the Selters water, it had developed a foul taste in
the process). Priestley produced an apparatus for producing this water;
soon after, by 1781, carbonated water was able to be produced on a large
scale.
15. Walter Pagel, Joan Baptista Van Helmont: Reformer of Science and
Medicine (CUP, 2002), 61.
16. And thus installing the material conditions of worldwide Pepsi-production.
17. H Schadewaldt, ‘Paracelsus and Balneology’, in Schweiz Rundsch Med
Prax., 29:83 (1994), 371-6.
18. J o h n
Dee’s
annotations
on
Paracelsus’s
Baderbuchlin.
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19. Walter Pagel, Paracelsus: An Introduction to Philosophical Medicine in the
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Era of the Renaissance (Karger, 1982), 26.
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