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Umělec magazine 2008/2 >> Unfolding the Middle East: Kristen Alvanson’s Nonad
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Unfolding the Middle East: Kristen Alvanson’s
Nonad
Umělec magazine 2008/2
01.02.2008
Robin Mackay | review | en cs de es
DIVUS LIVE (blog)
Azad Gallery, Tehran, May 2008
Show list
27.07.2014 19:39
In his 1998 book on Leibniz, philosopher Gilles Deleuze proposed the figure
of ‘The Fold’ as a way in which a philosophy of immanence might measure
the multiplicity of the universe. If Being speaks in one voice, if we invoke
no transcendent plane of organisation, then how can difference be
articulated? Deleuze’s vision of folds-within-folds, which he discovers to be
ArtLeaks:
The Assembly for
Culture in Ukraine:
Shaking the
Foundations of Ukraine’s
Ministry of Culture
The Assembly for Culture in
the reigning principle of the baroque, extends to labyrinthine structures
Ukraine is essentially an ongoing
enfolding infinite complexity (or implexity) without yielding to any form of
meeting of citizens who are
transcendence. Kristen Alvanson, an American artist working in Iran,
concerned with how cultural
suggests that we read the Middle East, in all its obscurity, inscrutability and
hybridity, in terms of such a topological model, as a fabric folded and
processes in Ukraine are
structured and intent on
transforming these structures
refolded into a baffling surface where disparate elements abut
and pressing the Ministry of
unexpectedly and overlap each other in paradoxical fashion. Inversely, her
Culture to shift the vector of
recent work demonstrates how the multiple cultural codes at work in the
influence on culture from
region can be manifested through the folds of its fabrics.
Alvanson must have been prepared, as her show Nonad opened in Tehran’s
Azad Gallery, for it to be misread as a further move in an already
hackneyed political ‘debate’. For nothing brings out the neurotic nature of
the West’s relationship with the Middle East in the twenty-first century
(beginning, let us say, on September 11, 2001) better than those
garments that notorious legislation in France attempted to outlaw under
the description ‘conspicuously religious’. With the debate on the hijab and
the chador, the reassertion of secularism as non-negotiable principle of
enlightenment clashes with the liberal commitment to tolerance; and the
confused credo of multiculturalism vies with the neo-feminist exigency of
government ideology to the
people who are the recipients
and creators of cultural products
and processes.
Divus Unfolding the Middle East Kristen Alvanson’s Nonad
Other/Kristen Alvanson/Divus _ Unfolding the Middle East_ Kristen Alvanson’s Nonad.pdf
‘liberating’ Middle-Eastern women into the alternative cruelties of
consumerist subjection. Writing in Le Monde on the controversy over the
banning of ‘the veil’ in schools, French philosopher Alain Badiou suggested
the French protect their schoolchildren instead against those far more
pernicious semiotic triggers of social antagonism, ostentatiously-displayed
global consumer brands. And yet, comfortably addicted to those ciphers of
abstracted desire, the West continues to find something chilling and
disturbing in the sight of women uniformed in mute, black coverings whose
significance and relation to their wearers’ individual and collective desire is
obscure. The conflicted allegiances of feminism—do the dark folds create a
protected, autonomous space, its blank surface baffling the male gaze; or
are they walking prison cells, sinister instruments of ‘islamofascism’?—
attest to the essential point: The West is only able to confront Islamic
dress as a sign of absence, or an absence of signs. It is this tendency
Star Wars, I.
01.01.2000 | Open
which Alvanson’s project challenges, by engaging instead with overlooked
features of their material and manufacture. Discovering that this
supposedly traditional garb envelops more than its state-approved image
would like to admit, Alvanson has refabricated it, making these disavowed
complications explicit in a work which unfolds between the materiality of
the clothing and the cultural formations that seek to capture and overcode
it.
Recommended book
Some visitors to Nonad did inevitably misinterpret it as a feminist or post-
Open
colonialist gesture because of Alvanson’s employment of the chador (the
traditional Islamic female garb—usually black—which covers the whole
head and body). However, the work was concerned above all with
encouraging a more subtle and attentive relation to these garments. It is
Alvanson’s attunement to the language and the construction of textiles (in
the nineties, she ran HOUSE, a New York fashion label popular with night
clubbers), that enables her to avoid the obvious pitfalls facing an artist
who attempts to interrogate an alien culture. The false naivety that
promotes artists’ ‘personal response’ to experiences, often no more than
an alibi for reproducing exoticism; and the equal danger of an overcautious
respect for ‘otherness’. By adopting a hands-on relation with the fabric and
patterns of the chador, rather than approaching it through already-coded
political discourses or as part of a personal odyssey, Alvanson makes
possible a fresh look at the socio-political relations in play in the Middle
East. Rejecting the artists ‘responsibility’ to relevantly address hot topics,
she chooses instead to experiment with the matter which underlies them.
Described by the artist as part of an investigation into the ‘threefold’
relation of women, the Middle-East, and fabric, the main component of
Nonad consists of a number of chadors which, suspended from the ceiling,
form a kind of soft, diaphanous architecture through which visitors wander.
Liberated from their inhabitants, draped from above, hanging like sleeping
bats, the garments open up, exposing that inhabited inner space which the
West invests with such anxiety. Indeed, exploring the installation, or
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seated within its confines (the Azad gallery is also a meeting-place where
artists and friends meet to talk and debate, during Alvanson’s show doing
so inside a ramified textile cocoon), it is no longer clear whether one is
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‘inside’ or ‘outside’ any one of the chadors. The viewer becomes a
participant, embraced by materials which have ceased to be ‘conspicuously
religious’, and instead unfold to reveal hidden possibilities.
The most important of these hidden dimensions concerns not the relation
between woman and Islam, but that between nomads and the state: a
relation which Alvanson highlights through a re-engineering of the
commentary art projects theme
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q & a artist exhibition media
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interview theory new
faces new face in transition
traditional chador. Banned by Reza Shah in 1936, but reinstated at the
theory info war
time of the revolution, the standard-issue chador favoured by the current
the Western Concept art project q&a
Iranian regime, with its affection for Khomeini doctrine, is made in
regulation black material. By contrast, the clothing of the nomad people of
the region is characterised by highly-coloured, patterned, sequined or
diaphanous fabrics. In Iranian towns, the bazaar remains, true to Persian
tradition, something of an interzone between these cultures, a station or
intersection where women from both cultures browse at their leisure,
surveying the fabrics on offer for hours at a time. Particularly in Shiraz,
profile The End of
focus essay comics u-sobě
where Alvanson lives with her Iranian husband, the bazaar is a place where
the nomadic and the sedentary converge momentarily, only to go their own
ways once again. Alvanson’s chadors, which incorporate the lively nomadic
fabrics, and which adapt the regulation four-piece half-circle pattern of the
Chador to incorporate elements of nomad tradition, seek to prolong this
moment of co-mingling. But furthermore, they seek to make tangible the
twisting, convoluted fabric of Iranian culture itself. Nomad and state are
never exactly opposed; in fact they have an episodic history of informal codependency, their relation of mutual suspicion often giving way to mutual
convenience. It is nomads, for instance, who stand guard around the staterun desert oil complexes. Modern Iranian culture comprises an inextricable
mixture of nomad and Islamic influences. The presumption (of either the
Iranian state or its Western critics) that the chador can be subtracted from
such syncretism and re-presented as a sign of religious purification, is
therefore nothing more than a contemporary artifice.
Whilst thus laying out the implicit (in-folded) dimensions of this society,
Alvanson’s creations also constitute a kind of speculative fiction, projecting
forward a vision of a mongrelised culture whose dress would express
rather than suppress these inherent hybridities. Rather than making an
orientalist exhibition of the strangeness of the chador or the nomadic garb,
therefore, Alvanson uses them to make a direct intervention into the sociopolitical fabric in which they are mutually imbricated.
The more obscure elements in this intervention are the ABJAD diagrams
which Alvanson showed together with the chadors. ABJAD is an apocryphal
and syncretic numerical system not unlike hebrew gematria. A popular
vernacular numerology, surviving on the peripheries of official religion,
ABJAD has been used for centuries for spell-casting, charms, protection,
fortune-telling and koranic interpretation. According to Alvanson, in MiddleEastern occultism, nine is the number of ‘unceasing collectivity’: it is the
number which, in ABJAD, acts as a base element to which other numbers
can be transformed, thus acting as a conduit between otherwise unrelated
texts. This element of the show gives the ‘nine’ of the title (‘Nonad’ being a
neologism composed ‘of nines and nomads’), and can be seen reflected in
the chador installation: the half-circles of Alvanson’s re-engineered chadors
are composed of nine textile panels sewn together, rather than the four
which make up state chadors. Three outer panels employ the black fabric
of the state chador, framing the selections of nomadic fabrics in the
remaining panels: the nomadic elements, ironically, finding themselves
inside the frameworks and the boundary of the state; whilst the state
simultaneously embraces an internal heterogeneity. Meanwhile, in the
ABJAD diagrams, the nine-panel pattern of the chadors is echoed, repeated
and multiplied, in a sort of dance or other social interaction, with a number
of whirling and sweeping garments seen as if from above. The drawn
chadors are filled with markings which from a distance seem to be arabic
writings, but close-up reveal themselves to be a mixture of arabic,
numerical ciphers, and incantations in English repeated across several
drawings (‘speed’, ‘inside’, ‘fire’). The drawings suggest that the collectivity
of chadors is not that of a rigid, victimised mass, but harbours stranger
connections and potentials, its undulating black waves carrying information
in encrypted form.
The drawings are freely adapted from the elaborate spell-casting diagrams
of ABJAD. Alvanson takes up the calligraphic pen, as she did her
dressmaker’s scissors, without any compunction with regard to
‘authenticity’. Since ABJAD is already a syncretic, mongrelised system, she
allows herself a free hand in its contemporary re-creation. Returning from
these mystifying and charged diagrams, one appreciates how Alvanson’s
nomadic chadors themselves act as ‘diagrams’ or political maps, where
state and different nomad groups meet in strange alliances.
The inevitable difficulties of sewing together the various materials involved
means that each chador displays idiosyncrasies and ‘flaws’, effectively
emphasising the materiality of what is usually a heavily coded and
standardised garment: the formerly quiescent materiality of the thing
reasserts itself against the abstract (uni)form, and where the black of the
state is married with nomad influences, the seams and sutures show and
tell. Yet as Alvanson argues, the same applies as soon as any chador is
worn, transformed from a standard-issue garment into a living, social
form: the chador cannot therefore be reduced to the empty, blank cipher of
subjugation. Neither curtain nor shield, the internal logic of these textile
entities, the artist demonstrates, deserves to be properly explicated.
Amirali Ghasemi, one of the originators of a ‘Tehran Roaming Biennial’
designed to counteract the isolation of the Islamic Republic from the
international art scene, has declared that, in order to take this touring
show designed to promote Iranian artists worldwide, the organisers
together with their suitcases of artworks ‘will travel like nomads’ – making
Alvanson’s participation in the upcoming event highly appropriate. But how
much more strange and compelling would it be if the political pariah and
‘rogue state’ she has made her home were to return to the fold of the art
world, from which it absented itself after Ahmedenijad’s rise to power, by
sending to the next Venice Biennale this American artist, with her
passionate demonstration that the reviled chador cannot be understood in
the terms of readymade political ‘debates’ that serve only to reconfirm
comfortable dogma … Such a possibility is only one of the baroque twists
suggested by Alvanson’s work, in its involved examination of the complex
spaces of the Middle East.
ABJAD diagrams from Nonad
ABJAD diagrams from Nonad
ABJAD diagrams from Nonad
ABJAD diagrams from Nonad
View of Nonad Chador Installation at Azad Gallery, Tehran (May 2008)
View of Nonad Chador Installation at Azad Gallery, Tehran (May 2008)
01.02.2008
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